Steven Morris 

End of the ‘vomit comet’: Scillonian III makes final voyage from Isles of Scilly

Much-loved passenger ship has traversed Atlantic swells between islands and Cornish mainland for almost 50 years
  
  

Scillonian III sailing in open water
Scillonian III embarked on one last 37-nautical-mile trip from the island of St Mary’s to Penzance on Sunday. Photograph: The Isles of Scilly Steamship Group

Tears were shed, sea shanties sung and tales of stormy voyages exchanged as one of the UK’s most characterful passenger ships completed its final voyage.

Scillonian III, also known as the “vomit comet” because in stormy weather it tended to rock a little too much for the comfort of those susceptible to sea sickness, has chugged between the British mainland and the Isles of Scilly, for just shy of half a century.

But all good things (or bad, depending on your sea legs) come to an end and on Sunday the grand old ship made one last 37-nautical-mile trip from the island of St Mary’s to Penzance in Cornwall.

“Everybody on the islands has been talking about this last voyage,” said Terry Ward, who was onboard Scillonian III’s first journey through the Atlantic swells to Scilly in 1977.

“That trip was beautiful,” said Ward, whose great-grandfather was the founding chair of the Isles of Scilly Steamship Group, which has operated the ship.

“We sailed overnight from north Devon where the boat was built. It was a lovely, glassy sea. When we arrived, the quay was packed with locals wanting to have a first look. A magical trip.”

They could not have known that Scillonian III would last so long. Over 49 years, it has sailed more than 10,000 times, carrying islanders, holidaymakers and ornithologists (Scilly is a fine location for bird-spotting) between spring and autumn.

“I don’t think there’s a better-loved ship anywhere,” Ward said. “It’s been part of the fabric of the islands. When it turned up in March every year, it signalled the start of the season. We weren’t marooned any more. When it left at the end of the season, it left a bit of an empty feeling.”

Ward accepted that travelling on it could be tough for those with sensitive stomachs. “I think it’s a beautiful vessel but when it was rough it could turn into a hospital ship.”

People came to favour a particular seat. Those keen to spot dolphins or basking sharks liked the outside areas; others liked the lower deck inside, where you could fall asleep, comforted by the ship’s drone.

Ray Jackman, a Scillonian businessman who was on the ship’s first and last voyages, always sat next to the engine room because the crew would show him the vessel’s inner workings. “It’s been an amazing ship. She’s very rarely broken down and has been a big part of people’s lives on the islands. It’s a sad day.”

As its name suggests, Scillonian III was the third passenger ship to serve the islands over the last century. The first, Scillonian, operated from 1926 to 1956 and during the second world war was fitted with guns and used as a military transport. Scillonian II lasted 25 years before being replaced by Scillonian III, which was launched by the then Prince Charles.

Scillonian IV is on its way to the islands from south-east Asia, where it has been built, around the Cape of Good Hope. It will make its maiden voyage between the islands and the mainland in March and the steamship company says it will carry more passengers, be swifter and feature “roll and pitch reduction systems” to counteract the impact of the swells.

The steamship company had expected a few dozen passengers on the final voyage but tickets sold out.

The final passengers enjoyed blue skies and calm sea conditions. As dusk fell, the vessel was escorted into Penzance by a flotilla of Cornish pilot gigs, kayaks and pleasure cruisers. Hundreds of people lined the harbour walls.

When it docked, the Cape Cornwall Singers – Penkernow Canoryon in Cornish – welcomed it with a rousing version of Harry’s Song for Cornwall, with its line: “Let’s hear it for the farmers and for the fishermen.”. As the passengers disembarked, some joined in.

Among the first off were Pat and David Smethhurst, who have holidayed on Scilly for decades and now have a firm link after their son, Andrew, married a Scillonian woman. “It was a lovely crossing, unusually smooth, but with lots of tears,” said Pat. Jim and Ruth Venner got engaged on the island. “Scilly is huge in our lives,” said Ruth.

Jane Coak, a nurse on Scilly, said Scillonian III had been a wonderful ship. “We’ll miss her a lot.”

Simon Nicholls, who sported a Cornish tartan tie and hat, said he lived in Penzance, and Scillonian III had become part of the fabric of the town. “You see her every day; you hear her every day. It’s the end of an era.”

Also along for the final voyage was Sholto Blackwell, a self-confessed Scillonian superfan and founder of the ship’s Facebook appreciation page, which has almost 5,000 members.

Blackwell, a crane operator and lifting supervisor who lives near Bristol, said he felt very sad for Scillonian III. “It’s the end of an era for me. It carries so many memories.” He has regularly sailed on the ship since he was taken to Scilly on holidays as a boy. “I’ve made maybe 30 or 40 return trips.”

Feeling queasy has sometimes been part of the experience. “I’ve suffered with sea sickness many times,” he said. “But the reward is, you get to Scilly, which is magical. Feeling sick was part of the journey, part of the fun.”

He accepted that the islands and crew needed the new ship – but was not completely convinced the new vessel would mean the loss of the thrills and spills Scillonian III was known for. “They say it’s going to make for faster, calmer journeys. We’ll see.”

 

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